Weeds have sprouted along the edges of the new access road I discussed in the last post. In addition, new sections of old chain link fence are being assembled, ready for fitting in place.

The fence is a simple affair made from 0.080″ styrene rod for the posts and top rail, along with pieces of wedding veil fabric purchased years ago at Walmart. An entire fabric yard of the stuff cost me less than 3-5 dollars, and is more than a lifetime supply of fencing.


I’d give dimensions for the fence but truthfully, it’s eyeballed for looks rather than measured. The fence posts are at ten foot intervals, which I have learned is the maximum spacing on the full-size versions. Depending on the height and the type of terrain traversed, post spacing varies up to the ten foot limit.


I simply make the framework for a section on the workbench, using pieces of tape to hold things in place during glue-up. Two feet seems the practical maximum length to handle without breaking it. There’s nothing fancy here, just butt joints and styrene cement. I remove the tape and lay a strip of the fabric down and brush more cement along each post and rail to secure it. I’ll leave this to dry overnight before trimming excess material away. The framework is often glued to the cutting mat at the joints but it’s easily loosened by sliding a single edged razor blade underneath. Once the fabric is trimmed up I give everything a coat of Tamiya Primer (always done outside) and weather appropriately. I want the fence to disappear into the background, so there are no details to speak of that would draw the eye to it.

I’ve left the posts long so that I can plant them in the scenery. These sections of fence are in the background and unlikely to be bumped or touched by stray hands, so I’m not overly concerned about how well they’re secured. As mentioned last week, the fence will weave in and out from shrubs, low trees and other scenic items. These will help disguise the ends of each section and negate the need to have a continuous run of fencing across the entire scene.

With nearly sixteen actual feet of fencing to do, I have my work cut out for me.

I greatly appreciated Chris’s and the other comments last week and, there’s never any need to apologize for asking a question. Such questions provide opportunities to clarify my thoughts and advance the conversation. So, thanks to all of you who do comment, however infrequently.

In my deliberations prior to making the changes, I was prepared to do just as Chris suggested by removing the yard track and turnout to the run-around, then extend the passing siding along the main to use for the setouts. Since all my switching is a trailing point move now, I have no problem loosing the run-around.

Such ideas often sound good in the abstract but not so good in reality. Before plunging in I did one final experiment with a few freight cars and determined that cars on the rear track would be very hard to see and work (couple/uncouple), if other cars were sitting in front of them on the main. I encountered this situation before and didn’t see the sense in recreating a problem I’ve already solved. Therefore I decided to leave the track arrangement as it is.

Further, that weedy sliver of open space between the main and the yard adds a note of breathing room that I feel is important. In this scale it’s so easy to crowd things, something many of you ¬†intuitively understand judging by your comments. As I work on the scene I’m happy with how it’s coming together.

Regards, Mike